DALT VILA

Taking its name from the old arab fortifications, when d'Alt Vila (literally the upper town - think of 'alt' meaning height, as in the word 'altitude') was the final stage and most impregnable of the city's defences. Dalt Vila is now the name given to all of the old part of Ibiza Town, contained within the ancient city walls.

Dalt Vila is more than just something to be photographed at a distance while 'doing Ibiza Town', and is much more interesting than an invisible backdrop to the gay cruising that goes on in the rampart areas. After 15 years of exploring the island and the city, I still get excited when I spot a previously overlooked nook in Dalt Vila, and don't get me started on the crannies! By day or by night, Ibiza Town is both a photographer's and a history buff's dream. If, like me you're both of those, and gay and a club bunny, you won't be able to get enough of the place!

The best way to explore Dalt Vila is by staying there, as otherwise it's very difficult to muster the energy to venture up that bloody hill for more than a fancy meal in one of its many fancy restaurants. The best place to stay is the Aparthotel Navila, packed full of history and character itself, and run by as traditional an Ibicencan family as you could ever hope to meet, the fantastic Ferrer-Ferrers! Granted amazing powers when their rocket ship was exposed to cosmic rays upon entering the earth's... Sorry, that that's the Fantastic Four, not the fantastic Ferrers! The Ferrer-Ferrers are Pepita, Toni, Katiana, Carlos and José, and their butler Lurch, and they live in a magical hotel in the heart of Dalt Vila... From the hotel, not only do you get to see all of Ibiza Town, but you also get to live inside the beating heart of Dalt Vila itself.

Once you're inside Dalt Vila, the best way to discover its secrets is to get lost... Or try to at least! If you keep heading uphill, you'll eventually get to the top, and the cathedral, and some amazing views across the town, the island and the sea. Once you get to the top, head down again. Whichever route you take, you'll eventually come to the old town's main entrance, Ses Taules, commonly known as the big gate at the top of the big ramp.

Between the top and the bottom, you'll find hundreds and hundreds of narrow streets and alleyways, historical buildings and classy restaurants, shops and bars... and a really good egg and chips restaurant called Es Forn! As much fun as it is to explore on your own, a good guide is worth its weight in gold. If I'm not available, I'd recommend a book called Guide through Dalt Vila and La Marina, written by a very Ibicencen woman by the name of Marià Mayans i Marí, which is about as local a name you can get! She was born in Dalt Vila and knows more about it than most, plus the book includes a guided tour through Dalt Vila. If you can't get hold of this book, equally recommended is the Rough Guide to Ibiza & Formentera (2nd Edition), written by an English author by the name of Iain Stewart, who knows the island as well as any of the locals.

And before you start complaining about the bloody hills in Dalt Vila, there are dozens of old Spanish ladies who live within its walls, who seem to have no trouble trotting up and down its slopes to their homes or to church, all always laden with armfuls of shopping including 5 litre bottles of water. So, no excuses...

Martin
x